One afternoon a number of years ago, a local restaurateur came into my winery to order some wine from me. During the conversation, I asked if he had anymore of an older wine left in inventory. He said he wasnt sure, since his cellar was so full that he had to develop another cellar in his basement to keep the inventory that was spilling outthen, he complained about slow wine sales.
I knew that this fellow charged too much for wine at his restaurant and so I asked if he ever considered lowering his prices. He looked at me as if I had just cursed his grandmother.
Heres how the rest of the conversation went.
He, If I lowered the price Id lose money on each wine sale.
Me, But you just said that your wine sales are slow.
He, Yeah, the wine doesnt sell as fast as Id like it to sell, but thats no excuse to give it away.
Me, You wouldnt be giving it away. Youd be charging a little less so that you can sell the wine faster.
He, So what would be good about selling it faster at a lower price? Speed up my losses?
Me, First, youd lower inventory carrying costs. Second, faster sales will likely increase wine sales over the course of the year, since the price will induce more people to buy more wine from you. In retail, the idea is called volume sellingyou move more units and so in the end, you make less percentage per unit but more profit on overall sales.
He, Thats plain stupid. If I cant get my full mark up, Id never make a living.
Me, Right. Ill see you in a few months to sell you another case of wine.
These many years later, this fellows wine pricing remains disgusting. His formula is to price wine at triple plus one-half retail. For instance, he had a Vinho Verde on his list recently that retails for $7.00 a bottle. His price was $25.00 a bottlehe rounds up the half, of course.
Most restaurants arent as greedy as triple plus halfthey usually go double plus half retail, which still is absurd, in my view.
Ive heard the arguments from restaurateurs: they have glasses to clean and wine service to account for. But I dont accept those excuses. Simply put, restaurants charge what consumers allow them to get away with charging. It will be interesting to see if this period of economic woe will have an effect on wine prices if restaurants start to sell less, but I doubt it.
To be sure, the price of wine in restaurants is a tired subject. I know, Ive been talking about it for twenty-five years, much of that time trying to persuade restaurateurs when I sold them wine that they should consider reducing their prices. But like just about everyone else who complains to restaurants, I failed at persuading them.
Yet, every so often a smart restaurateur comes around and does what other restaurant people probably view as either stupid or insanehe or she prices wine a little better than the competition.
Recently, a wine bar called Terroir opened in Manhattans once grungy but now fashionable East Village neighborhood. The bar is owned in part by one of the citys truly successful and innovative wine purveyors, Paul Greico.
At Terroir, Greico offers wines that are mostly under the radar, the ones that most critics and obsessive wine hobbyists dont seem to care about but regular people who consume wine not as a hobby but as part of their daily routine do care about. When you search for or consume wine regularly, as opposed to collect wine or buy what you are told to buy, it pays to keep searching for new products and at new prices.
Greicos wine prices are as under the radar in Manhattan as the wines, and I wish him all the best for his effort.
You can get a nice glimpse at his place by following the link below. The link will also give you a glimpse into what some wine geeks think about such matters. Pay special attention to the person who wanted to know if Terroir allows BYO.
I can think of three reasons to go to a wine bar and want to bring your own wine:
1. You are cheap.
2. You are uninterested in exploration.
3. You think that your wine cellar is the greatest thing since wine was invented.
If you fit any of the above, its probably best that you stay home and drink from your cellar. You probably neither will be nor have any fun at a wine bar.
Copyright Thomas Pellechia
April 2008. All rights reserved.